Complete Frame

Once you receive your frame kit, make sure all the parts are there. You should have:

  • 4 Frame rails
  • 4 Blank corner plates
  • 4 Corner plates with screws
  • 2 hanger clips
  • Spring clips
  • Wire


Hints and tips:

  1. When putting together your “U” shape use one long member and two short members, so you won’t have as far to slide it in the frame.
  2. Sometimes you have to back the screws slightly out of the corner hardware and the hanger hardware to get them to fit easily in the channel.
  3. If there are any burrs on the frame miter, scrape them off with the edge of your screw driver. And, for those of us that strive for perfection, use a black magic marker and color the bare metal at the miters.
  4. I like to slide my glass/art/backing sandwich into the frame face up. Try placing your sandwich face up on a book or two so the frame does not have to contact the table when you are sliding the frame onto your art. Then flip it over on the table to screw on the last frame member and install the spring clips and hanger.
  5. When cleaning glass remember that the edges are sharp and don’t run your hand up and down on the sharp edges.
  6. Look carefully under the glass for any specks or streaks before you slide your art into the frame. It is a lot easier to fix it before it is completely installed.


Hints and tips:

  1. For oils on canvas and other thick art that will not have glass, you can screw all four corners together and then put the art in the back.
  2. If, after you install the hanging clips to hold the art in the frame, you find the art is not tight in the frame use mat spacers behind the clips to hold the art in.
  3. If the art is a little too thick for the clips to screw in the channel try notching out a little of the backing (or wood on the stretcher bars) where the clip contacts the are. With canvas that is wrapped around the back of the wood you will need to pull out some staples and unwrap the canvas to access the wood. As a last resort you may need to re-stretch the canvas on a more traditional stretcher bar. (A stretcher bar 3/4" to 1" works best and most are 7/8" thick, which is perfect. Anything beyond 1&1/4" is too thick without some major adaptations.)


Hints and tips:

  1. All 3 plates are a tight squeeze in the 3/16" channel so you need to be sure the screws are backed out of the corner plates so they do not protrude beyond their bottom surface. They will fit, but you have to squish them down and push them in with some force.
  2. As I write this there is no hanger hardware for the back channel. However you can easily hang the picture by pounding a nail in the wall with a head on it and leave the head out about 1/4" inch from the wall. You can use two nails if you have a lot of bumping or shaking of your walls, to keep your picture from swinging out of level.


Hints and tips:

  1. This looks more complicated than it is... It is one of my favorite uses for the TopnotchFrame! The art becoming part of the frame is really cool, but please do not cut up an original or rare piece, use it mainly on posters and open edition, more common, prints.
  2. Once you have your picture installed, just put in a few spring clips, and while looking at it from the front, line up the contours of the art to the contours of the image in the frame. Once they are perfect install the rest of the spring clips so it can’t easily come out of position. You may want to bend the clips so they are very tight in the frame.